Tokyo's kaleidoscopic lights, crush of humanity and sheer scale can be overwhelming for first-timers. Yet linger a while and you'll almost certainly encounter the serene side of traditional Japan. Discover graceful tea ceremonies and gardens awash with springtime cherry blossom, a world apart from skyscraper-dotted Shinjuku or trend-obsessed Harajuku. Forget trying to make sense of this megalopolis, with its jigsaw of real estate and seething mass of people, and follow the example of the omikuji (fortune scrolls) at Senso-ji Temple -- just take Tokyo as it comes.
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